The University for the Creative Arts, Rochester show took place on Day Two of Graduate Fashion Week. Seventeen of the top graduates from the Fashion Design course presented an eclectic mixture of prints, techniques and fabrics. With inspiration coming from around the globe, each designer had something new to offer to the fashion industry this season.

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Daniel Holliday

Outwear was the main focus of Holliday’s collection which took inspiration from a fateful voyage to the South Pole.  The concept of an upturned boat used for shelter became the silhouette for Holliday’s key piece – a cocoon shape coat using heavy duty felt dyed lime green.  Behind the jackets and blazers were shirts printed with turquoise patterns, suggesting behind the shelter of outwear life still thrives within.

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Lucy Mellor

A collection entirely constructed from printed felt and cotton satin was presented by Mellor as she took the hidden wonders of the world and brought them to life through pattern. Mellor’s garments were extraordinarily detailed with layer upon layer of hand cut felt pieced together to create graphic patterns on coat dresses, pencil skirts and slim fit trousers in a palette of icy blues, teals and blacks.

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Richard Sun

A simple array of body con dresses were pieced together with monochrome inserts and black piping to form geometric shapes criss-crossing over the body. Each garment was accessorised with a mesh and metal construction which closed around the bodies and faces of the models. These structures were inspired by an empty shell of a Hong Kong building which was surrounded by metal bars; Sun translated this into accessories that encased the wearer in his garments.

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Olivia Salmon

A youthful and innocent collection which took inspiration from the children’s novel, ‘The Secret Garden’ was presented by Salmon. Beautiful hand-drawn floral prints adorned blouses, shell tops and dresses in a sweet palette of rose, mint, lavender and baby blue.

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Emily Houghton

A casual collection of black and grey menswear included loose fitting shirts, trousers and cowl draped t-shirts. Pockets were turned inside out and seams were raw which played into Houghton’s influences from the ‘Inside Out’ building by architect, Richard Rogers. Two of the shirts featured a print in blue and yellow tones which added an extra dimension to the collection.

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Hanna Hanhela

Guided by armour and protective wear worn by child labourers, Hanhela’s collection mimicked the protective gear through silver inserts and structured capes. The silhouettes were kept clean to emphasise the construction and fabrics used for the collection. A standout concept was the juxtaposition between the beautifully draped, black floor length gown which was held together at the shoulders with constricting straps.

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Annie Harris

Rounded shoulders and garments skimming the body was the main silhouette in Harris’s ‘Amelia Wonders’ collection. The modern patterns in blues and muted oranges were printed onto rich silks and fine organza to form a strong presentation from this designer.

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Jenny Prismall

Rich arrays of sunset tone silk prints were layered with camel and burgundy outwear for this War Horse and military inspired collection. The leather detailing was the main component to Prismall’s designs. The material was wrapped in strips around trousers, buckled around sleeves and manipulated into harnesses over shirts and dress coats to create a new constructed silhouette.

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Marianne Sorensen

All black was the message from Sorensen as she envisioned a World War II woman in Russia who is dreaming of escape. The black garments allowed for Sorensen’s construction techniques to shine through as she experimented with fabrics such as lace, leather and wool. Dresses with folded bodices created an interesting silhouette whilst other pieces such as leather trousers and flowing cape could be imagined worn by a women running silently through the streets of Russia.

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Callum Burman

Cool, casual and set for the beach was the vibe coming from Burman’s ‘Vice’ collection. Inspired by 80s television programme ‘Miami Vice’ and the Art Deco buildings found at Miami Beach, this menswear collection was fresh and fun. The relaxed tailoring of loose fit shirts and shorts and cosy knits for chilly nights in a fresh palette of azure, strawberry, pistachio and cream could certainly fit into the menswear section today.

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Pavinder Dhani

A conceptual collection that focused on the idea of ‘interruption’ and the beauty of imperfection was presented by Dhani. The draping techniques were undoubtedly exquisite and material fell and wrapped itself around the body in aesthetically pleasing ways. The skin tight panels on the dresses were inserted to interrupt the drape as it fell which created a silhouette that was balanced between streamline and voluminous. Set off with gold cuffs and necklaces the opulent colour palette also added a glamorous feeling to the pieces.

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Sharon Osborne

The behaviour and light and shadow served as inspiration for Osborne’s presentation. Experimenting with shining light through fabrics created the patterns which were printed on to silk and used for sheath dresses and as an overlay. The grey scale gradient palette was hardened by the use of suede for outerwear which juxtaposed with the soft silk and the idea of light bouncing off hard surfaces but shining through soft.

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Marshaal Jolly

Straight cut silk bodices were draped with heavier silk crepes and cottons in kaleidoscopic prints for this collection. The simplicity of the silhouette allowed for the prints to become the focal point and exude a bohemian vibe on the catwalk.

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Suzanne Graham

Graham’s menswear collection was inspired by the true story of a homeless man living on the streets of China, although modelled by males the collection is said to be genderless. The clashing and contrasting uses of fabrics such as draped silks against heavy cotton outerwear emphasised the idea of uncertainty and the unconventional life and style of a beggar.

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Elisabeth Bostrom

Synthetic wig shoulder pads gave some clue to the concept behind Bostrom’s collection which was inspired by natural and dyed hair. The colour scheme showed digitalised prints in carnival bright colours placed against midnight blue, black and burgundy silks constructed into shift dresses, halter neck tops and dresses and straight neck tops with silk trains.

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Emma Beaumont

The harvest and the spirit of fertility influenced Beaumont’s collection. A neutral colour scheme was used on traditionally tailored pieces such as cropped jackets, waistcoats and long line shirt dresses. The garments had an organic feel to them but still retained femininity through silhouette and fabric choices of sheer organza and wool.

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Stephanie Zeinati

Looking into the culture of Tibetan and Afghani nomads led Saudi Arabian designer, Zeinati to create garments in a mishmash of clashing fabrics, textures and patterns which reflect the style and imagery of nomads. Shapes were cocoon like around the body and each garment came with outwear such as a loose fit, camel cardigan, a cropped knitted jumper or a heavy duty bomber jacket.

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Word by Anita Sheth

Photography by Debora Palazzo

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