Kicking off Graduate Fashion Week this year was the Newham based University of East London. UEL is a global learning community with over 28,000 students from over 120 countries world-wide. Their vision is to achieve recognition, both nationally and internationally, as a successful and inclusive regional university proud of its diversity, committed to new modes of learning with a focus to enhance students employment and renowned for their contribution to social, cultural and economic development.. They have a strong track-record in widening participation and working with industry and their participation at Graduate Fashion Week showcases this.
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JOANNA PYBUS
Splice Me – First up with a collection entitled ‘Splice Me’, Pybus showed six post modernist inspired outfits created through the splicing of elements of furniture, art and fashion. This was combined with a dash of humour and absurdity, resulting in a relaxed yet striking collection of easy to wear pieces, styled with sixties influences with a comical oversized eye motif running throughout on clutches and incorporated into playful prints.
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HELEN BUTCHER
Shanghai Express – Inspired by the carefree attitude of the 1930′s this collection showed a number of straight cut, printed ensembles clearly influenced by the art deco movement, including dresses with dropped waists and spliced tailoring. A feminine yet dark and edgy collection.
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RACHEL McLEAN
A Soul In Transition – This collection was an exploration of divine enlightenment and redemption , drawing inspiration from the biblical tale of the road to Damascus. Harsh structures with cascading folds dominated this collection, made from a combination of smooth leathers, robust wools and gabardine.
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RACHEL LOUDEN
Linear London - Inspired by the abstraction of modern architecture in London this collection consisted of clean, simple silhouettes constructed from multiple seam lined panels. Textures were layered and heavily contrasted with soft mohair atop of shimmering metallic with a clean and minimal colour palette of pastels and cool greys.
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JASMINE KACHARINA MAY
Hallucinate – Inspired by the hallucinogenic effect on the mind and the structure of tropical mushrooms, this collection featured cleverly layered laser cut work and vibrant prints to create a highly dynamic effect. Prints were bright, bold and vivid on silk jersey that draped beneath intricately laser-cut fine leather pieces, layered to create impact and play with the imagination.
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FRANCESCA AIR
Sami Nights – This collection was inspired by the Nordic Lights and their reflection on the landscape, people and their nature cycle. Influenced by the clothing of the Sami Tribe, Air focused on the exaggerated silhouette and form to create bell shapes through layering and cut with emphasis also on fullness and boxy fits. In a colour palette of muted tones of pink, raspberry, sepia, raw umber and nude; all reflecting the reflection of half-light on the Nordic Landscape.
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HUAN YANG-WILLIAMS
Fear No Sacrifice - Cultural Revolution heavily influenced this collection, inspired further by the traditions and ideals of China’s past and the contrastingly rigid conformity of communist rule. Military influences could be seen in the form of strong structure and the use of blues and greys, alongside gentle silhouettes and colourful floral prints in soft fabrics. Freedom and a disregard for conformity was translated through raw edges and the fabrication technique of Devore.
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TERRI-LEIGH FINNEGAN
Liberte ou la Morte - Distorted tailoring combined with layering was key to this collection in order to create powerful and masculine silhouettes and shapes. Alternative cutting techniques created an unexpected, tactile and yet simple result that was incredibly wearable. Made from natural materials including cotton, wool and raffia, the fabrics were strong, heavy and protective.
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CHARLENE HOON PINYI
FULL PLAY: The Bicycle Girls – Nanyang Academy of Fine Arts student Charlene drew inspiration from the the simple pleasure of a bicycle ride. Using lightweight fabrics such as cotton polyester, jersey knits and silk chiffon she created a block coloured, easy to wear collection featuring shorts and 3/4 length trousers, with bat-wing sleeved tops that billowed as the models walked, to reflect the movement of clothes worn when cycling.
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RAJINDER THANDI
Worn Again - In a colour palette of of black, grey and earthly shades, Thandi’s collection was a combination of over sized shapes and silhouettes mixed with gentle tailoring, clever cutting and quirky detail. Tailoring and work-wear elements have been used to create a laid back yet luxurious appearance with lines kept simple yet highlighted by raw edges throughout.
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MELISSA LAZARO-LOMAX
The Eye Of Iris – This collection was created around the character of Iris, a depressed young girl set in a negative state of mind. Once again layering was key to this collection with tough leathers worn over ribbed cottons, distressed chiffon and translucent fabrics. There was an emphasis on the sleekness and innovation with unexpected twists such as sharp tailored coats work as dresses.
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ELIZABETH SOON LI QIAN
transFORMing lines: Shapes to form, Forms to shape - Through exploration of life’s different dimensions Elizabeth used a mix of hand coated PVC strips, jersey knits, cottons and chiffon to create a jumbled arrangement of colours, illustrating how different layers build upon each other, resulting in drapes that transform silhouettes. Day glow colours and glittery textured fabrics graduate throughout with a powerful visual impact.
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FELIPPE JOHANN
Influenced by macro photography of exotic insects, Johann used a combination of print, applique & dynamic cut lines to produce a collection that challenged traditional silhouettes and proportions making the wearer stand out.
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CHLOE GARROOD
Garood showed us simply cut angular shapes, decorated in digital tribal prints as well as intricate beading and embellishment. This all came in an array of denim, chambray and indigo shades.
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TIFFANY BARON
Baron showed us her take on essential sportswear through her use of performance textiles such as plastic and neoprene in an array of bright colours and prints. Leggings and scuba tops were worn under an oversized puffas and hoodies giving off an urban street-style vibe.
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HENRY MARIRE
Sons of Men – Through the fusion of heavy and lightweight fabrics this collection was a combination of classic military and modern sportswear, functional and yet luxurious.
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LULA GHEBRE
Beautiful Destruction - Exploration of the destruction caused by mankind inspired and led Ghebre’s earthy and pastel coloured collection. The use of lightweight and dense materials as well as the use of print helped create depth and a layered silhouette.
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UMA KANGAI
Through Rose Tinted Glasses – Kangai showed us her take on a fairy-tale fantasy, being influenced by the intensely feminine. Pink, heart shapes and fringing all assisted in creating an overall sickly sweet an beautiful look.
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SHAKILAH NOORI & SOPHIE HOEPELMAN
Tsaritsa - This was a collaborative collection which focused on the strengths of both designers; digital print mixed with creative pattern cutting and intricate bead work.
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AIMEE WARD
Sirens - Following in the footsteps of many renowned designers this year, Ward was inspired by the depths of the ocean and its tropical inhabitants, leading her to create carefully cut and structured garments beautifully decorated with hand cut embellishments.
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Article by Kate SInclair
Photography by Chloe Lock
