University of Northumbria displayed a multitude of both women’s and menswear in an eclectic show at this year’s Graduate Fashion Week.
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EMILY EDGE- “Glass Geometry”
This menswear collection kick started the runway show with a modern display inspired by glass, architectural shapes, and the coast. Using a traditionally seaside palette of icy blue and cold grey, Ms. Edge managed to brighten the hues with warm gold and camel as a sun and sand-like counterpart. The use of digital print also updated the look; the boxy silhouettes and use of felt and knitwear gave the pieces subtle movement.
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OLIVER MOORES – “Brixton Briefcase”
Moores classes his show as ‘tailoring for the aggressive sportsman’, stemming his influence from a Queensbury boxing ring from the 19th century. His sport references were made clear with models coming down the catwalk holding skipping ropes, whilst others had tassel-like fringing sewn into the sleeves for a unique twist on the idea. Moores used a wholly British colour scheme for a patriotic mood and a nod to traditional heritage, but ensured the collection has a contemporary edge with his use of neoprene and wool combinations.
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FELICITY BRADSHAW- “Abduction”
Bradshaw displayed one of the most innovative collections of the show with her use of multi-media material. Taking fashion further than texture or shape, she included electricity in her designs with under-lighting on her first model by use of carbon fibre. Her aim of the collection was to “utilise the [carbon fibre] fabric, leading the audience to question what fashion really is”. Featuring angular trousers and draped white dresses with metallic accessories, the collection is feminine with hints of avant-garde – an ode to technology and perception.
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CHARLOTTE SOWERBY – “Grace under pressure”
This dark collection takes inspiration from social tribes and subcultures, as well as the twisted metal structures found in junkyards, and was used to reinvent her silhouette. Fundamentally a wearable street collection, it is thoroughly urban with tie-dye style jeans, tweed, and heavy footwear. Sowerby references punk and goth tradition with a palette of charcoal, black, deep purple and midnight blue. She combines materials such as leather/cotton shirts to renew the grunge look in an non-aggressive way.
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REBECCA BYERS – “Erosion’s Discrete Beauty”
This collection sought to display a juxtaposition of collapsing building structure with ladies of riches and elegance. This was achieved though combining loose drape jersey, chiffon, and thickly textured knit in a colour scheme of husky creams, rusted charcoal and burnt brass. Adding weight to her pieces both figuratively and literally, Byers used hand crafted, slinky gold chain. Overall the collection was heavy and luxuriously intrusive, but somehow made to look effortless.
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ZOE EASTHAM – “Liberty Skies”
A collection inspired by flight and the explorers within that field. The wearable collection features shirts with crisp folds likening that of paper aeroplanes or other origami, military style suits. The obligatory aviator jacket also features, reaffirming Eastham’s theme. Traditional uniform colours of khaki, grey and navy gave the collection a timeless appeal whilst her interesting tailoring ensures her pieces were one-off.
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KELLIE FOUNTAIN – “Ginger”
This was a fun and colourful collection with a vivid personality. Shades of mustard, camel, lilac and cerulean take the collection back to the days of the swinging sixties; scalloped patterns, felt and brogues rounded off the era. Images of airplanes in the tights and jewellery indicate the wish to travel back to times of past as well as showing off Fountain’s pattern skills.
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CHLOE HORSFIELD – “I can’t decide who wore it best”
Foremost a collection for men, though the project name reinforces the fact that much of its oversized pieces are unisex; suitable for the urban, trendy girl. The collection was a mish-mash of shape and texture: quilting alongside tweed and thick knit. Inspired by 90’s hip hop culture, pieces included the jock jacket made over with a patchwork of peach, teal and khaki. Colours were never one-dimensional, instead made up of a multitude of shades, adding quality to the urban style. These toned down versions of the 90‘s original ensure the ensembles fit the era as well as being high fashion.
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AMELIA SMITH – “The Heavenly Kingdom”
Smith gave us a unique collection that drew inspiration from Red Square in Moscow. The wintery additions of traditional Russian hats gave a gentle finish to the loud print – the hand-drawn, architectural designs enabled each outfit to represent a different building. The collection is modern, detailed and shapely in a simple palette of black, white and gold. The look is refined and memorable.
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KATHRYN IDDON – “Urbane Modification”
One of the more wearable displays from Northumbria, Kathryn Iddon channels the street cults of 1960’s and 1970’s to produce her neat, sharp ensemble. The collection is British in its attention to tailoring and has a warm, versatile colour scheme of navy, soft grey and burnt orange. Zipped cardigans, cut off trousers and parka-style raincoats echo the influences of britpop, and the variation of textures is subtle enough to ensure the collection retains depth and interest but can still be worn everyday. Overall it gives an urban edge to gentlemanly shape – menswear that is slick but sensible.
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KATIE TOMLINSON – “The Sculptured Cut”
This collection focused on shape. Inspired by Barbara Hepwroth and Henry Moore, the pieces here aspired to create asymetrical fashion that is sculptur-esque and comfortable. Heavy use of draping and an assortment of different shapes add volume to the outfits, and accessories such as a wooden clutch bag and orange laces give a new dimension to the clothes. Here, traditional silhouettes can alter and adapt to the modern eye.
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MARTIN PERCIVAL – “With Scott to the Pole”
Designed for A/W 2013, the collection pays homage to the 100th anniversary of Captain Scott’s South Antarctic expedition. It is easy to see such influences within the outfits, which include a bear-like, full body, thick haired gilet, and a short navy winter coat with fur hood. It is a sleek collection with a strong, classic palette of black, white, cream, grey and navy, but has feminine touches such as the harem trousers. His main fabric is wool, for practical warmth as well as sharp tailoring potential. Percival creates a modern equivalent of a Captain’s finest.
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HANNAH HARRISON – “I travel for travel’s sake”
The biggest explosion of colour came from Harrison’s debut display, which is inspired by travelling to South-East Asia on a high-end fashion budget. Simple shaped garments transformed with mad patterns and unconventional accessories including fur-trimmed sunglasses and bandannas illustrated with board games. The real skill lies in the technique however; the eclectic mix of screen printing, foil, flock, procion dyes, digital prints, macrame and laser cutting is responsible for the overall affect. The collection, in turquoise, fuchsia and an assortment of metallics push the boundaries of travel wear.
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KAMILLE DAVIS – “The Fisherman Tribe”
Inspiration for this collection stems from a combination of a Scottish fishing village and the lifestyles of tribes in Thailand. Davis uses contrasting cloths and fabric manipulation amongst denim, tweed and knit to create texture and volume in this display of urban wear. Shapes are long, oversized, and baggy to add to the theme of escapism; there is nothing constricting. A colour scheme of mustard yellow and brown works for both gritty seascape and traditional tribal brights.
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JENNIFER DECARTERET- Menswear- “Derelict”
The collection merged colours with fading dye and speckle effect to mirror the nature of decaying and abandoned buildings. The display used a palette of worn colours of grey, dirty blue, dull peach, interrupted only by flashes of yellow to portray an urban, sporty theme. The combination of wool, doeskin and linen adds variety to the pieces, and the assortment of smart shirts and casual raincoats make it a wearable collection.
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KATIE BRIGGS – “Yootha”
This was a sassy, feminine collection inspired by kitsch fashion and a 70‘s colour scheme. Buttercream, lemon, and candy pink fuse together with tobacco brown and storm grey to create a soft, harmless look. The collection is playful and sophisticated, and the laser cut jewellery and printed shapes add a subtle but much-needed futuristic element.
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YING XU – “Majestic Unisex”
Ying Xu makes menswear in a unisex style, based upon the contrasting attire of royalty in both the East and West of the world; King Henry VIII vs. the Chinese Dragon. Using traditional royal colours of red, black and white, the collection creates a rich middle ground between spirited and reserved. Trousers are cape-like and knitwear is given thick hoods. A long belted smock and mohair fringing on the winter coat allows there to be a variety of tastes, compromising modern masculinity with feminised tailoring.
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GARY WILSON – “No Love Lost”
Finally, Gary Wilson delivered a dangerous and overtly sexy looking collection in shades of black, metal and electric blue. Telling a story from lady to sex beast, each outfit was tall, angluar and shiny, with big shoulders, plunging necklines, ripped tights and PVC wraps for a goth appeal. With the most of the model’s faces hidden, the clothing did all the talking instead.
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Words by Elle Jenkinson
Photography by Chloe Lock
